Looking for instructions? Click here!

One of Vanagon.org’s main missions is to bring you products at the best price possible. I used to sell this exact pump for years, but it never sat right with me. If I can’t add value to something, then what’s the point? Yes, I documented the installation instructions. (See above link.) Yes, I did provide the two additional clamps in my “kit” so you wouldn’t be left scrambling to the parts store. But still, it just felt deceptive.

The reality is, Amazon sells this at a better price then you will find anywhere else. All I ask is for you to please use my affiliate link (at no cost to you!) to make the purchase. I will get a small referral fee and in return you will save $30+ over me selling this to you as a middle-man. (You’ll save even more compared to other parts suppliers.) Win-win!

BUY HERE: https://amzn.to/33HRwEo

Again…Do NOT place an order here on vanagon.org! It will be immediately cancelled. WE DO NOT STOCK THIS PUMP!

Fitment:

• Bus 1975 - 1979 fuel-injected

• Vanagon 1980 - 1991 fuel-injected

Installation Notes:

The original fuel pump came with push-on spade connectors for the power supply that were easily disturbed. Bosch has updated the design to more secure eyelet connectors. You will have to cut off the old spades and crimp on the new eyelets. For more details please see our instructions.

Supplies

You will also need two clamps. We prefer stainless steel “ear clamps” as they are more fool proof:

• One (1) - 14.5 mm fuel hose clamp (outside diameter)

• One (1) - 21 mm fuel hose clamp (outside diameter)

• A variety pack like this will give you more than enough that you can use for other repairs: https://amzn.to/2J8yz45

If you use a screw-type clamp, just make sure it’s a “smooth bore” made for fuel hose. A standard hose clamp will cut your fuel lines causing leaks!

TOOL REQUIREMENT: 

A pair of “pincer pliers” are required for the ear clamps. We highly recommend and personally use the Oetiker Side-Jaw pliers shown below (roughly $40). They are excellent as they have front and side pincers that help in tight spaces.

If you're looking for a more budget friendly option, the Oetiker Straight-Jaw pliers shown below (roughly $19) have just the front pincers, are about half the cost, and are also highly rated. However, we have never personally used them.  

Maintenance:

A common reason your fuel pump fails actually has to do with your gas tank. There are seals on your tank that eventually wear out, which can allow all kinds of crud to get into the fuel system. This crud can clog the fuel filter (if you have a pre-filter), or clog / damage the pump itself if you have a post-filter. The result is the same...your pump needs good fuel flow to operate properly, if that flow is restricted your pump will eventually fail. One tell-tale sign that something is amiss, is that your pump will "buzz". If you ever hear this, you either need to replace the filter, clean out the pump, or both. Ultimately, this means you need to clean (or better yet, replace) your fuel tank and all associated seals and breather lines. There is only one way crud is making it into your filter or pump, and it starts with the tank. Bosch will NOT warranty any pump that contains debris.

For reference, we used this pump in our personal Vanagon for four years before selling the van. Our fuel tank seals were old, which meant all sorts of crud kept showing up in the pump. The pump would start to buzz because it was getting clogged. We literally found small pebbles in the pump…twice! We’d flush it out, and keep on going. Nothing is perfect, but suffice to say, these pumps are well made. Ours took years of abuse and kept on ticking. (And still is to our knowledge.)